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The Tarka Trail ( Map )
The off road section of the Tarka Trail runs along a disused railway line starting at Braunton in the north and ending at Meeth in the south, a distance of over 30 miles. The trail runs through some of the most beautiful parts of Devon and parallels the meandering course of the rivers Taw and Torridge for much of its length.
Braunton to Barnstaple:
Campsite: Goulds Farm, Nethercott, Braunton.
Cycle from the campsite along the narrow and quiet Nethercott Road turning right at its junction with the quite busy A361 and on through the village of Knowle. After approximately 1.5 miles, the start of the off road track (a wide pavement shared with pedestrians) will be seen on the opposite side of the road. On into the small bustling town of Braunton (cycle racks can be found next to the track after it crosses over the B3231). The trail then passes the Royal Marine barracks at Wrafton before running some 3 miles alongside the river Taw toward Barnstaple.
The Castle Quay area at Barnstaple has been sympathetically modernised and restored and now offers plenty of modern cycle racks and riverside benches. After a walk round the large town of Barnstaple with its variety of shops and old pannier market , we returned to the campsite; a round trip of 17 miles.
Yelland to Barnstaple
Campsite: Half Penny Acre, 56 West Yelland, Barnstaple.
Left out of the campsite entrance onto the B3233, and after about half a mile, left again into a lane leading to an industrial area. After a further half mile, the lane crosses the trail giving the option of cycling right to Barnstaple or left to Bideford.
Initially, the trail to Barnstaple runs through farmland until it spectacularly meets the banks of the river Taw at Fremington. Fremington's old railway station and unusual signal box have been refurbished and turned into a traditional restaurant and tea room. With panoramic views across the river, this is a perfect place to stop for refreshments.
The trail continues to the outskirts of Barnstaple where it meets a well signed, on road section heading toward the town centre. Taking a left turn over the bridge brought us once more to Castle Quay to park the bikes.
Although bright and sunny, this particular day was very windy. The headwind became really intense along the exposed banks of the river where a glance at the cycle computer showed that we were hard pressed to maintain a speed of 1.5 mph in the lowest gear.
All along the route we had come across many fellow cyclists who gave us a cheery smile and hello as they sped past us in the opposite direction. We did our best to return the greetings but with red faces, streaming eyes and a smile resembling that of a Wallace and Grommit character in a wind tunnel, we could not have been a pretty sight.
The return journey was a dream as we sped wind assisted back toward the campsite giving smug, hearty greetings to the cyclists we had previously come across as they struggled red faced against the wind on their journey home. Although the round trip was only 12 miles, it certainly seemed considerably more.
Yelland to Bideford
From the campsite back down to the trail, this time turning left toward Bideford. Much of this part of the trail had recently been dug up to lay a new water main and the resurfacing had not been completed, therefore it was a somewhat bumpy ride.
Cycling toward Instow it is impossible to miss the restored signal box which stands guard over the old railway crossing. At this point, a short detour to the right will bring you to the popular Instow Sands, a long sandy beach with views across the river Torridge to Appledore.
From Instow, the trail follows the course of the river to Bideford and passes under the impressive road bridge built to carry the busy A39. The restored railway station at Bideford stands above the town and on the opposite side of the river. It has an information and visitor centre and plenty of secure bicycle stands.
From here it is a short walk across the old stone river bridge to explore the town with its meandering side streets and old pannier market. With the return journey, this gave a round trip of 11.5 miles.
Merton to Bideford.
Campsite: Little Speccott Farm, Merton, Okehampton. This lovely little campsite is a quiet and secluded half acre lawned field nestling on a hillside between Little Torrington and Merton, with panoramic views over the surrounding countryside.
From the campsite, turn right onto the quiet A386 and right again at the first turning after about 500yds. This quiet lane runs downhill and meets the trail after about a mile giving the option of going right to Bideford and left to Meeth.
From here, the trail to Bideford runs slightly downhill for some 4 miles and becomes one of the most picturesque sections as it meanders through woodland, past enigmatic sculptures, strangely carved bench seats and through a long curving tunnel.
In several places, the trail crosses the river, giving dramatic views of weirs, viaducts and the surrounding countryside.
On the outskirts of Bideford, the trail runs close to the river bank giving open views to old lime kilns on the opposite side of the river and distant views of the estuary as it slowly curves toward the town.
Once again we arrived at the town's old railway station where we parked the bikes and had lunch prior to returning to the campsite. This was a round trip of 22 miles.
Merton to Meeth
From the campsite back down to the trail, this time turning left toward Meeth. This section of the trail also holds one or two surprises as it winds its way through the countryside.
After passing more concrete and mosaic sculptures the trail leads into what can only be described as an enchanted forest where it snakes its way round tight clusters of tall trees and lichen covered logs .
With the sun filtering through the leafy canopy and the harsh call of a cock pheasant echoing through the stillness, you would not be in the least surprised if a grazing unicorn ambled across the track as you rounded the next bend.
Out into open countryside again the trail passes modern clay workings and two fords which cut across the track. Finding no alternative route round the fords, it was a case of getting into a low gear, and whatever happens, don't stop pedalling! At least it got the dust off our tyres.
All too soon, the off road section of the Tarka Trail comes to an end as it reaches the old railway halt at Meeth. Here one can sit on a platform bench overlooking open fields and reflect on the unexpected pleasures of the trail before returning to the campsite; a round trip of 16 miles
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